![]() ![]() My bodega of choice wasn't as insalubrious as Kemp's (fictional) haunt – a makeshift bar called Al's Backyard – but it was traditional enough to quell rumblings that San Juan is turning into a bastardised version of Miami. So far, so Paul Kemp – the protagonist from Hunter S Thompson's book The Rum Diary who spends most of his time in tiny sweaty bodegas knocking back the finest fermented molasses the city has to offer. Whether it is the lazy fan circling overhead, the warm breeze primed with sea air or the background fuzz of Spanish songs on a crackly radio, it all distils into the perfect atmosphere. T here is something about Old San Juan that makes drinking rum at 11am seem a perfectly acceptable activity. ![]()
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